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COM 0570.002 2006-2008
i~ ~,ZV Oi y~ ~~Lyn \~II~ Harry Kim Dixie Kaetsu Managing Director Mayor i ~ ~.r:•C oi<~.:r~ Barbara Kossow Deputy Managing Director ~uuntp of ~aiuai`i 25 Aupuni Street, Room 215 • Hilo, Hawaii 96720-4252 • (808) 961-8211 • Fax (808) 961-6553 KONA: 75-5706 Kuakini Highway. Suite I03 Kailua-Kona, Hawaii 96740 (608)329-5226 Fax (808)326-5663 January 23, 2006 Sara Burgess 15-2721 Ohiki Street Pahoa, Hawaii 96778 Dear iv1s. Burgess: Thank you for sharing with me a copy of your preliminary proposal to save and preserve Honolulu Landing in Puna. I notice that you have also provided copies to your Council Member, the Planning Director, the Deputy Director of Finance, and your Puna representative on the Public Access, Open Space and Natural Resources Commission. You have included the right people in your distribution. There is no argument about the significance of Honolulu Landing. The Island of Hawaii has many special places like Honolulu Landing that are worthy of preservation. That is why the County Council created the Public Access, Open Space and Natural Resource Preservation Commission. This Commission will look at places all over the island and present a prioritized list of significant properties to my office for review and transmittal to the County Council. Thank you for caring about the land, and getting involved to try to save the special place that is Honolulu Landing. Your concern is appreciated. Al Cl~ Han-}' Kim MAYOR Cantu: Ho: S ' Ref. To: ti'e~ Ref. Date EP 20flL_ Hawaii County is an equal opportunity pro~~ider acid employer. PRELIMINARY PROPOSAL TO DOT FINANCING DEPARTMENT OF FINANCING COUNTY OF HAWAII JANUARY 1, 2006 TO: Paul Campbell Nancy Crawford Harry Kim, Mayor Chris Yuen, Planning Department Gary Safarik CONTENTS: Preliminary Proposal Background Material Tax Key Map Life in Earty Hawaii The Ahupua'a Political History of Puna Beaches of the Big Island FROM. SARA BURGESS 15-2721 Ohiki Street Pahoa, Hawaii 96778 808 965 0266 phone and fax Saturday, December 31, 2005 America Online: MomBurgess THE PROBLEM A historic and scenic property on the Puna Coast is threatened by encroaching real estate development and misuse by indifferent citizens. This place is Honolulu Landing and its surrounding area. One example of the threat to the property is destruction of immediately adjacent land which was leased by an individual desiring a better view of the sea. The land was leveled in the space of a few days. Now Beat land, covered with weeds, is eroding rapidly. An endangered Hawaiian Hawk with her nesting babies were displaced: the babies died of starvation. Due to the increasing cost of land in the area and the fad that many new owners want a sea view this tragedy will be repeated: Others have cut down trees near the Landing. An individual who was fined had the fine reduced, then carried on more destruction with impunity. Insufficient safeguards for the land exist, and once it has been "ripped," the plants and trees are gone forever. Other residents of the neighborhood have been carrying away sand and stones for their own properly, sometimes for putting up walls, etc., with the result that the once prosperous area of Honolulu Landing is seriously and permanentty degraded. The landing has become a place where drugs are bought and sold; drinking parties have created all the litter and filth associated with drug sites. THE SOLUTION The coastal area once designated as Honolulu Landing is owned by the people of Hawaii. The surrounding land has been taken over by developers and is privately owned. (see the description in the attached information) A plan to save this area would involve: purchase of land, community involvement and education. Possible action steps could include: 1. The formation of an advisory committee to create a step by step plan to transform an area that is rapidly deteriorating into an asset for the community and a place of great beauty of all to enjoy. 2. The creation of a nonprofd organ¢ation to oversee the overell plan and sufficient support and funding. 3. Submission of a proposal to the DOT Financng Department through Nancy Crawford, Director of the Department of Financing County of Hawaii for funds to purchase the land adjacent to Honolulu Landing. 4. Plans should be drawn up for the area to recreate an Ahupua'a similar to the one that once ebsted in the Hawaiian past Engaging involvement of community organizations such as Kamehameha Schools, Charter Schools, University of Hawaii Hilo Anthropology Department, Sierra Club, and others to take part in the design and exewtion of the plan. THE BENEFITS: There would be many benefits to a wide number of people including increased respect for the land, pride in the community for helping create a place of interest rather than destroy and disrespect a natural and historical site, Increased awareness of the past and how it has contributed to the culture of Hawaii today. 1. By involving the community in saving and recreating a historical site rt will be possible to educate people and enhance their appreciation of natural beauty thereby increasing their interest in protecting and preserving it. 2. The area could became a tourist destination...a modest but authentic "Hawaiian Yllage," Groups who are involved in saving indigenous plants, teaming abut Hawaiian traditional land use and customs for caring for rather than depleting the land would have a place to experiment in conserving what is possible from the past 3. Schools and other organizations could use the site for eduptional trips and create internships to help research and create a community resource. 4. Many creative possibilities exist that could provide training and jobs for people who like to improve the environment rather than simpty exploit it Perhaps a "Reality Show" could be started where people are dropped off in a situation similar to the ones experienced by eary Hawaiians and with no more resources than those early explorers, and team to survive on what was available in the environment People in the wmmuniry who are familiar with customs, practices and arts could be involved in the production of such an interesting experience. 5. A primary benefit would simply lie to preserve a place of breathtaking beauty for future generations rather than strip and destroy what remains of a fascinating history. i.ia ~ ~f ~ -+3k ~s f K'+,.. i1i R~~`,4'x t. y.~ t +~-'.n+F;Ty k-fim- a7 + :~r~„p A 3i~ ? c { s.- rr ~i 'y-~' ..~fi Q~~$d~, sx. .zti s } r w.. "4,. '€,T"''~ ! 2 k: t i ~'ita~~ . _ ~ ~ ,-F,.,r. a"~s ~Y..r. t. w ~ 3~ _ shy .~~q~~"°"~- ~ ~ • ,cV r~.. ~ ~~~af~th~ g .h 4 a - a-. a 2f ~ 3 + x:as~~~ John R.~ K. Clark Y v! ' ~ s .'F { .r.. # 1~ F~ k y. ~ r}3 % t 9-~. 9 yv.~ ~ Y^lAl ~cdb' t a 7 ' `'y~.a4 _ ,ice F ~~S ~ Sa~' '4`~t~ a'~~6Y 1t 'w~^s.~.i x s~ r Y r Y~ ~'~'4 g~~~"d~~.°'~ a'~". nx ~ a s t^ t Yd YA~~ ~Y ~'ic .ik'c~4' y.I~` ; . y. m.w• xs. 2 s''+{sr. ~ ~ l c. -zi f ~ t ~ s r ~~gg +fix l I` f kz A t rx~„ t.tq~y~i t~ f: i s rr es .y d+~ ~x3;s$R ~-sa Y4 l~-''a` ,~y~ y/~x I x ~ ~ yt ` t ~$--vt~Fh I ~ ~ 4l 'RJ1~ > _ ~ z ~'k Y~'fr3 t u}l'Y"Y~"44 ~~r ~:i - , ~ y y ~ zx:f "a ~ y .'iw. ".mom ) 6 ~ Iii 1V AKOLOVVALU-BOOK g~-~~ ~`~w al ~ ~ ~ ~ ti., _ University of Hawaii Press ~...;R~, ~ ~ t~ ~ f ~ Honolulu " , z > > g ~ . ; .~,x 1 f ~r a. rye- • .+c I Y+ 1. ~'tl. T~L.'yS1~a "YY 'p ~ 'S Y ~M~t}.~ 4 yS~. 2f ~~,#a~~ Ida YX. ad 1' .J s t Y F'14ti:14 F`~~"`4 r.v" © 1985 University of Hawaii Press All Rights Reserved Manufactured in the United States of America Photography by Nelson Makua, Graphic Images Hawaii Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data Clark, John R. K., 1946- Beaches ofthe Big Island. (A Kolowalu book) Bibliography: p. Includes index. 1. Hawaii Island (Hawaii)-Description and travel- Guide-books. 2. Beaches-Hawaii-Hawaii Island-Guide- books. 3. Parks-Hawaii-Hawaii Island-Guide-books. I. Title. DU628.H28C53 1985 919.69'1044 BS-13971 ISBN 0-8248-0976-9 with undertow are constant, these hazards are always Government Road ended at Honolulu and only the ala 'ught present-an extremely dangerous situation for swim- hele, the circle-island shoreline trail, continued on to h his mers. A large "Danger-Undertow" sign is posted con- Kapoho. The village was located among the trees mauka spicuously on the point. There is no convenient public of the storage shed, but former residents of the area say d on access to the beach or to any of the adjacent shoreline. that a developer clearing the land for house lots leveled for The shoreline from Kea'au to Honolulu Landing con- the entire village with a bulldozer, completely ob]iterat- own. sists almost entirely of low sea cliffs, with only a few ing house sites, graves, and other platforms and walls, geed low-lying azeas such as those at Ha`ena and Maku`u. ali of which had been in excellent condition. The only This Also located along this beach are two large subdivisions, ruins that survive are the interconnecting rock walls on at Hawaiian Paradise Park and Hawaiian Beaches Estates. located in a depression that also harbors a large dense Sip- On the shoreline of each subdivision a small public pazk grove of tall old cocoriht trees, a common sign of for- d for is located on top of the cliffs. Hui Hanalike Park, mer Hawaiian shoreline habitation sites. The depression ~rld. named for Hawaiian Paradise Park's lot and home- is directly mauka of the boulder beach and like much of Hilo owners' association, is a 6-acre azea situated near the the surrounding land is completely overrun by halo, leav- end of Paradise Drive. Hawaiian Beaches Park consists philodendrons, and other dense vegetation. cious of 3.6 acres at the makai end of Kahakai Boulevard. Prior to the subsidence of the shoreline in 1924, >f his Both of these undeveloped parks are frequented primar- Honolulu was a canoe landing visited periodically by I also ily by picnickers, fishermen, and `opihi pickers. During coastal trading vessels to pick up coconut, coffee, and i and the winter months humpback whales often come in very dried `awa. Canoes dispatched as lighters were launched state close to the sea cliffs in these azeas; on calm nights espe- over a black sand, olivine, and `ili `ili beach and paddled n has cially, their noises and splashings can easily be heard. out to service ships anchored in deeper waters. The are beach may have been created during the eruption of with (1 1840 that built the sand hills fn Nanawale. In the August ctinc- Honolulu Landing 29, 1840, issue of The Polynesian the editor reported ~wai`i After conversing some time [at Kahuwai7, we traveled that "two beaches were thrown up [near Nanawale] ea`au in an inland direction to Honolulu, a small village situ- where previously there was nothing but bold rock. The s ser- ated in the midst of a wood, where we arrived just at the longer is on the north of the hills and about 100 yazds in ta. setting of the sun. whilst the kind people at the house length; the other lies at the farther extremity of the lava small where we put up were prepazing our supper, we sent and and is but a few rods long." er of invited the inhabitants of the next village to come and Ships called at Honolulu Landing particularly for sand hear the word we had to speak to them. They soon `awa {Piper merhysticum), especially the `awa kau Id `au arrived. ream We afterwards spent a hour in conversation and prayer of Puna, the "tree-resting `awa." These plants grew in andy with the people of these sequestered villages, who had the crotches of trees and were believed to be extremely . and perhaps never before been visited by foreigners, and then potent. The root of the `awa contains a resin that acts as dis- lay down on our mats to rest. a mild motor depressant. The Hawaiians and other Pol- tch is JoarnalojWilliamE!lis, 1823 ynesians used `awa as a ceremonial and medicinal drink, er of but Westerners were most interested in its medicinal pro- rding Three places in the Hawaiian Islands are named Hono- perties. Most of the commercially produced roots were west- lulu, the "protected bay": the capital city of Oahu, a trans-shipped to the mainland United States to be open large bay in Nahiku on East Maui, and this former vil- rendered into various types of tranquilizers and anes- ntin- loge and canoe landing in Puna. The only easily visible thetics. Between 1846 and 1932 Hawaii law required a tl riP landmazk at the site, a small, deteriorating building con- license to sell `awa, but the regulation was intended :rtow strutted of beach boulders and concrete, was apparently chiefly for revenue-producing purposes and was re- oint. built in the 1920s by the territorial Board of Agriculture pealed in 1932. d the and Forestry as an equipment storage shed. The old In April of 1924 a series of violent earthquakes caused 33 the shoreline at Honolulu Landing to sink and left only the Hawaiian residents of Nanawale who had only boulders in place of the black sand. Shortly after this recently lost their entire village to the lava flow. They catastrophe, the few Hawaiians who had been living in described how they had remained in their homes until the area moved inland or to other parts of the island. the last moment, hoping that the lava would stop short Ships stopped calling, but the site continued to be of their village and spare it, but [he flow had continued known as Honolulu Landing, its common name today, on into the ocean. As the flow entered the sea, tiny par- Honolulu Landing is a boulder beach bordering the titles of `a `d were blown into the air and piled up on shoreline road, the only place for miles in either direc- both sides of the flow as littoral cones. lion where the road drops down to sea level. Seaward of Almost immediately the ocean began [o erode the the boulders is a large reservoir of black sand, but three cones thus formed at the edge of the Nanawale shoreline geographical features which would promote flow. Some forty years later J. W. Powell in the annual the accrctior. of this sand as a beach do not exist here, report of the U.S. Geological Survey for 1882-1883, The low rocky sea cliffs bordering both sides of the noted: "The sea has in great part demolished one of boulder beach are very popular both for ufua fishing these cones and has made considerable ravages in the - and `opihi picking. This coast, however, is very danger- others. In a few years, doubtless, they will all disap- ous and many lives have been lost to the heavy surf. pear." Fishermen spending the night at Honolulu Landing The remnants of two of the three cones aze part of report many strange occurrences and sightings, and the Nanawale Park. The Hawaiians called the cones Pu'u area has awide-spread reputation as a ghostly, mysteri- One, literally "sand hills;' the name still used for the ous place. site by former residents of the area. Most fishermen today know the area simply as Sand Hill, the cones pro- ~ (l8J viding an important landmark for shoreline and off- N~nliwale Park shore fishermen and for mariners. The US. Coast t The width of the lava stream was found to be about Pilot, a publication for mariners, offe[s this description three-fourths of a mile. It is said to have passed over the looking inland from the ocean, "an old lava flow ancient village of Nanavaie, and left upon its site and reaches the sea 4 miles NW of Cape Kumukahi and is cultivated grounds a deep layer of rock. mazked by two black hills, about 50 feet high, lying Tbere are three sand hills, which caused me more close together at its seawazd end:' astonishment, and involved greater difficulties to Nanawale means to "just look around." The long, account for them, than any other phenomenon con- narrow Nanawale Park borders the old Government netted with the eruption. From all accounts, the forma- Road running from Hawaiian Beaches 8s[ates to Lion of these took place at the time the lava stream joined Kapoho. A fairly dense grove of ironwood trees fills the j the ocean, which must have produced a violent Sand- i' storm, the effects of which are rendered evident fora entire park, the dominent features of which are the two SS mile on eithec side of the stream, by the quantity of sand dark cinder cones at the water's edge. Hikers on the rP ~ and graver that is lodged in the pandanus and other trees. cones should be extremely careful, as the cinder is very Narrative ofthe U. S. Exploring Expeditron, 7841 loosely compacted and will slide over the moderately Lt. Charles \i'ilkes high sea cliffs with only the slightest disturbance. The park is undeveloped, offering no facilities, but camping During May 1840 an eruption occurred along the east is permitted. rift zone of Kilauea volcano that sent a lava flaw into ]3esides sight-seers and occasional picnickers, fisher- ' the ocean, destroying the Hawaiian coastal village of men and 'opihi pickers are [he principal visitors in the Nanawale. Lt. Charles Wilkes, commander of the first area. Trails they have worn leading through the under- ! formal U.S. exploring expedition in Hawaii, and his brush and down the cliffs to the rocky shoreline ledges party passed through the area about six months later and points are numerous and most of them easily and obtained firs[-hand accounts of the eruption from found. To the east, between Nanawale and Wa'awa'a, a 34 beach of pa`a16, or rounded boulders, called Kiholo was a 4b~ in former times one of the most famous 'opihi grounds - _ - r, in Puna. 13y common agreement among the area resi- ` m - . _ l~,,i,::~.,,,,r,,~;,; dents, no commercial harvesting was allowed, so `opihi ~ e a":~:_ ~Gy ~ 1- m were always available for home consumption. In recent i~ ~ ; KGk'•i oie ~ years, however, the tremendous demand for opihi and r ~ ? On,y Hnaa w r;, the high prices it commands in the loco] markets has sa„a o% / ~ xpa'`o a. % r K"`"'~'N, caused the well-known Puna rounds such as Kiholo to H;u E ° kaima a S` ~ KAPOt+o nntPOOts be heavily picked. As a result, not only has the `opihi ~ a __litaDp'sno Kapoho supply been drastically reduced, but many drownings t; m have occurred in and around Nanawale Park, where the ( ( rn,ala,a ~ i ocean is almost always rough and waves pound ` relentlessly against the sea cliffs. Eala,e, l~~` I Pohoiki ISAAC HAEE BEAC H Fishermen, too, have been swept off the rocks to their e°ik; as' r,s.,:r s~, PARK o Mahmaakzatz deaths and many boats crippled by engine or other LAVA rRBE a. H-.a problems have been lost along this coast, dashed to n MoN. Qa~a, destruction against the rocky shoreline by [he strong Melama MACKE\ziE currents, waves, and wind. During periods of calm seas ku srarE RECRFAnu~ AREA some diving is done from boats offshore, but shark xaniahika l.diani sightings aze common and the sharks are reported to be valaQ. Esntes Rama'+\ Be ' •r,p;K;kaa' much more aggressive than in other azeas. Panoa Ist r °ifa Inland of Nanawale Park the heavi] ve elated land ~x,°'`'"° Y g a-,~...a, rz -a, n i. comprises the Nanawale Forest Reserve, an important 1955FIow` w nesting area of `io, the Hawaiian hawk. Nesting sites have also been reported in the neighboring mauka por- lions of Wa`awa'a, Kahuwai, and Halepua`a. The birds ~ K„iar,,,a s~.a themselves range for miles and are often seen a[ the "55Fi°W, es:a,e. , B130CEhne. 'KEHENA BEACH i'' xehena anairn: paaC ua2 I + KAIlUW87 Maps °km,~ tB - Our way [from Kapoho) now lay over a very rugged tract of country: Sometimes for a mile or two we were om;b. ' : ' ' ' JTJ KAIMO obliged to walk along on the top of a wall four fee[ high • and about three feet wide, formed of fragments of lava KLmaka'Wa H^;.-:u ~ ` [hat had been collected from the surface of the enclosures KaimO ~ KAIMO BEACH PARK (elad Sand Beach) which these walls surrounded. We were, however, Kalap pa HARR\' k. BROwh cheered with a beautiful prospect; for the land, which T- BEACH PARK ' rose gradually towards the mountains, a few miles to [he ~ westward of us, presented an almost enchanting appear- a~ t~ ante. - apyal F,' oWs The plain was covered with verdure; and as we :,g91-eae\.. caraen: q~a;•aka He~au advanced, a woody eminence, probably some ancient ,yraa~aBerhn•„M1:L~a~ crater, frequently arose from the gently undulated sur- F_~~-w-•~'~ face, while groups of hills, clothed with trees of various vo~cnrvors Put Y,.du~~(cme.POIfPOE%-KAUAA foliage, agreeably diversified [he scene. NnvoNAk,PAaK \'ILLAGES.wAHA'UUHEIAUF+n 35 LIFE IN EARLY HAWAII ' ~ z~ THIRD EDITION Kamehameha Schools Bernice Pauahi Bishop Esrare Kamehameha Schools Press Honolulu • 1994 d f ~ }r F ~ ~~T~$°, ' 87 .a~3d`~`v~;gx 'k' x~ x.f~` ,A aK y~ ti ' ~~f ' b eE •x`50 i-.. 3l '4- ~ x. ~fi- - ~ < - ~ -~~}}aa"" - r - ~M1~.,,,n¢$X ~ ~ . ~~s^ 'n find 9p~~~~}. 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Because its hulu (feathers) are not waterproof and it is not web- / footed it seldom makes water landings. l 2 A lawat a (fisherman) proudly displays the he`e (octopus) he has just caught. Most often inshore fishing for he'e is done with a spear. A shiny leho (cowry shell) is used as a luhe`e (lure) when hooking he`e in deep waters. Ua lehulehu a 3 Young paddlers are about to test their skill at pdkd wa`a (canoe surfing) in a wa`a kaukahi manomano ka `ikena (single-hulled outrigger canoe) which they aze taking out to the big swells. aka Hawaii. 4 Kane (men), wahine (women), and kamali'i (children) enjoy surfing using papa he`e nalu Great and numerous (surfboards) or pdkd u~a`a or simply kaha nalu (body surfing). These keiki kdne (young boys) u the knowledge of the use papa he`e nalu suited to their size. Hawaiians. 5 Kupuna (family elders) find great pleasure in caring for the mo`apuna (grandchildren). Mdkuahrne (mothers) and kaikamdhine (girls) drive small i`a (fish) into `upena (hand nets) with pula (leafy branches) of lau niu (coconut fronds). One kupuna holds a netful of color- ful i `a. A young wahine sits on a pohaku (rock) and cleans foreign pazticles from limu (sea- weed) she has gathered. 6 On the kahakai (beach) two large flat rectangular pohaku form a ku ula (fishermen's shrine). Here the first catch is laid as an offering to Ku`ulakai, the fishing god of the lawai`a. Near- by on the pu `eone (sandbanks) two kamali i play with the spreading vines of pohuehue (beach morning glory). 7 Where the kahawai (stream) meets the kai (sea) small flat or rounded water-worn lava ':lr'zb (pebbles) are plentiful. They are collected for use in certain dances and games. Two kxikanulhine at pla}' watch a keiki kdru chase another who is running with an bhiki (sand crab). 8 A simple nuolo (shed) provides shelter for several small wa a kaukahi, one of which is being launched by two kmte. t i I I 4 A kalai pohaku (stonecutter) and his young haumarta (apprentice) sit in the shade of a kou tree as they carefully chip pohaku pa `a (basaltic rocks) into blades for ka i (adzes). A pa la'au (stick fence) surrounds their neat and orderly work area. 10 A kdne opio (young lad) chooses his favorite papa he'e nalu. These large heavy boazds aze shaped fcom koa logs and aze six to fifteen Eeec long. Hele no ka wai, hele I 1 Kane of the bhana (family) pound poi (cooked taro corms, or rarely breadfruit, pounded no ka `ala, wali ka `ulu and thinned with water) while seated at opposite ends of the long heavypapa ku`i poi (taro- I o Halepua'a. pounding board). The pa`i `ai (undiluted, hard taro mass) wfll be stored in umeke la`au The water flows, the (wooden bowls) and suspended in koko (nets) hung from an oleole (Food pole) in front of the hale (house). Three pua a (pigs) of different colors run freely near the hale. smooth stone [pounder) works, and the bread- 12 Ingredients for an `aina (meal) of 'uala (sweet potato), kola (taro), ulu (breadfruit), and fruit ofHalepua`ais mai`a (banana) are laid out on lau mai`a (banana leaves) and lai (ti leaves) ready co be well mixed [into poiJ. cooked by hot stones and glowing red coals in the imu (underground oven). The small Everything goes smoorhy stack of kindling and pohaku will soon be used in the adjacent imu reserved for the women's when one is prosperous. food. ICitne prepare and serve the `aina for the men and women. h A play on wai (water) and `alrt (smooth scone). Ala 13 Wahine clean soiled kapa (bark-fiber cloth) in the slow-flowing kahawai. Kaikamdhine commonly refers to cash. care lot the younger kamali'i. F;'. In later times, Hele rzo ka F, wai, here no ka `ala came 1 to refer to a generous t 4 A hale is under construction. Kane use 'aha (coconut sennit) to lash togerher fitted and donation. Halepua`a is a notched poles. Two kdne have started to ako (tie on) pill (thatching grass) which was place in Puna, Hawaii. picked, bundled, and carried to the kahua hale (house site) by wahine. When freshly thatched, pill is fragrant, yellow-brown, and attractive both outside and inside the bale. 15 `Upena are made and mended exclusively by the lawai a. 16 The hale 'aina (women's eating house) is used by wahine, kaikamdhine, and keiki kdne under the age of six. The hale mua (men's eating house) is used by the kane and older keiki kdne. Branched oleole are set up outside each hale to hold `umeke /a'au, umeke pohue (gourd bowls), and hue wai (gourd water bottles) suspended in kokd. Thus pua`q 'Ilio (dogs), and moa (chickens) can roam freely about the eating hale without disturbing the mea `ai (food). 17 The hale pictured here are clustered rather than dispersed. One has to pass through the low nib (doorway) of a hale by carefully crawling in on lima (hands) and kuli (knees). Narrow pa /d'au keep bolohalorsa (animals) out of precious mala (garden plots). lS ~n the kahua kapa (women's work yazd) a makuahine enters the hale kua (or hale kuku, H~omen's v.~orkhouse) where toots for making kapa are scored along writh unfinished kapa. The ka kdpala (dye containers) ate also kept in this hale. Kitrre supply fresh vegetable dyes which they extract from a large inventory of d}'c plants yielding a variety of colors. In the PART II ~t_at~~ s o~ «ea~Ta.?.c~ ~u HA4'~tA[~AC~ L[EE Nk Mea Kanu Waiwaiika Nohona Hawaii Plants growing in the a/9upua`a may be das- number of species arrived and without ag- sified into foot groups: endemic, indig- gressive wmpetitors or predators they were enous, Polynesian introduction,-and exotic. able to survive and flourish and diversif}'. Plants in the first three groups were grow- The fragile island environment was dis- ing in Hawaii before eighteenth-century rupted when foreigners arrived bringing O ka la`au o ke kola a explorers traveled ro the islands. "Exotic" in with them plants, animals, and insects chat noho ana i ka `aina, o ka the scientific sense does not have anything were hardier than what already existed in la`au o ka `aina a nalowale to do with what a plant looks like but the the islands. Over the years more plane and aku ana. fact that it came from somewhere else. Even animal species have become extinct in The trees of the plainr will today alien-meaning foreign-plants and Hawaii than in all of Nonh America. dwell on the land,• the trees animals continue to be introduced in of the native land will Hawai i from many parts of the world. I N D I G E N O u 5 PLANT 5 vanish. Plants that are native to Hawaii and may E N D E M 1 C PLANTS also be native elsewhere are said to be A prophety uttered by Plants that aze native only to a particular "indigenous." These plants came to Hawaii Kalaunuiohua. Trees from area are called "endemic' to that area. The without the aid of humans, in most cases the plains of other lands will spores or seeds of plants endemic to more recently than the endemic ones. They grow here and our native Hawaii arrived by natural means, perhaps have not changed appreciably as time has trees will become extinct. cazried by wind, sea currenu, or birds passed and their counterparts elsewhere countless ages ago. Eventually the planes continue to grow as the same species. developed eharatteristics so different from their ancestors that they became distinct POLYNESIAN INTRODUCTION S species and, in some cases, genera. Colonists from the Marquesas and Society Hawaii has the highest percentage of Islands carried plants to Hawaii. Between endemic species in the world. Ninety-nine A. D. Soo and iaoo these people transported percent of the Hawaiian insects and land plants to cultivate for use as food, clothing, shells are endemic. Also endemic are 98 medicine, and dyes, and to satisfy other percent of the birds and 89 percent of the human needs in their new island home. flowering plants. This is due in pazt to the They also introduced three useful domestic remote isolation of Hawaii. Onl}' a limited animals-the dog, chicken, and pig. 8 i~ ' PLANTS OF IMPORTANCE IN HAWAIIAN LIFE 9 E X O 71 C PLAN 7 5 the time of Captain Cook, we would not All plants introduced to Hawaii since 1778 expect to be studying any exotic plants. ate called "exotic." These plants greatly The one exception is aliipoe, or canna, outnumber other plants in the inhabited once thought to be native but now dassi- areas. Many of them are characterized by fled as exotic. their vigor and rapid dispersal, which ofren The plants are described as they were result in choking out endemic and indige- known and used in the r7oos before Cap- nous plants. Several are known to us as rain Cook's arrival. We have not attempted weeds. to describe the plants precisely enough for Since this book and the accompanying identification purposes nor to list all of poster focus on a Hawaiian valley before their uses. Appendix A Political History of Puna by Dorothy B. Barrere* The main source materials for the early histor; cf :iawaii are the writings of Abraham Fornander and Sa,auel hamalcau, both of whop co}lected traditions from the informants of their day, the mid-19th century. The scholarly Fornander re_ counted the political history of Hatraii in the second volume of An Account of the Polynesian Race. on a basis of what he considered historically acceptable facts, Kama!cau, writing for the tia~raiian nexspapers, recounted all traditions as equally factual, making no distinction between history and legend. However, as Kamakau writes froci a Hawaiian point of view, his account of certain events, particularly those dealing with the inheritance and control of lands, may be nearer a true picture than that of Fornander. 67e find that Puna, as a political unit, played an insignificant part in shaping the course of the history of Hawaii island. Unlike the other districts of ;iawaii, no great Samily arose upon whose support one or another of the chiefs seeking power had to depend for his success. Puna lands were desirable, and were eagerly sought, but their control did not rESt upon the conquering of Puna itself, but rather upon control of the adjacent districts, Ka-'u and Hilo. An attempt to follow in detail the course of Pupa's history is meaningless, since her history is bound up with the fortunes of the ruling i'amilies on either side of her. Only such mileposts as were significant to the di°.trict itself are therefore given here. Puna in thz time of Liloa - circa 1475 A. P. - was one of the six district kingdoms of Hawaii rnc~se chiefs were autcnouoLS within their own districts, but who all acknowledged Liloa as their supreme c!rief. ~~fter Liloa's death, his son 'Umi killed Yakau, his half-brottrer, the oldest son of Liloa and acknowledged heir to the kingdor7, fiskau's dcith left 'U,.i '.n pos:.ession of Pamakua, the hrme *IS Emon~, ct al. (1959) "~~atural and Cultural Hist~r~; ^'.coett ;n chu l:al.~rsn:a ~~itional Park." `1.<.. ir. Cent. '~ct'ornn~ i~~:;,~, P. Extension of the Hawaii fli >Lna ^?u II-3 Traditionzlly, Puna was one of six districts of the isl!<nd of Hawaii around A.D. 1475. The chiefs of tiie six districts acknowledged L31oa as their supreme chief, but with the death of Li to a, the unity of the six districts was temporarily destroyed. 'Umi was a son of L'iloa, but not the acknowledged heir to the title of supreme chief. However, by conquest, 'Umi reunited the kingdom (Barr~re 1959:15). The conquest of Puna by 'Umi is described by the Hawaiian historian S. M. Kamakau: Hua-'a was the chief of Puna, but Puna was seized by 'Umi and his warrior adopted sons, Pi'i-mai-wa'a, 'Oma'o-kamau, and Ko'i. These were noted war leaders and counsellors during 'llmi's reign over the kingdom of Hawaii. Hua-'a was killed by Pi'i-mai- wa'a on the battlefield of Kuolo in Rea'au, and Puna became 'Umi-a-liloa's [quoted in Barr"ere 1959:16]. The complex and interesting history of Puna, from this period of conquest by ''Umi to the military conquest and control of Hawaii Island by Kamehameha in 1791, is told by Barrere (1959; see Appendix A). Early Descriptions of the Kapoho Area, 1823-1929 Kapoho is an ancient place name that can be translated literally as "the depression" (Pukui et al. 1976:88). For Puna, the district in which Kapoho is located, we have two descriptions from the first half of the 19th century; one by Reverend William Ellis, who travelled through Puna in August of 1823, and one by the scientist Chester S. Lyman, who visited the area in July of 1846. The population of this part of Puna, though somewhat numerous, did not appear to possess the means of subsistence in any great • variety or abundance; and we have often been surprised to find the desolate coasts more thickly inhabited than some of the fertile tracts in the interior; a circumstance we can only account for, by supposing that the facilities which the former afford for fishing, induce the natives to prefer them as places of abode; for they find that where the coast is low, the adjacent water is generally shallow [Ellis 1917:203]. Our course the first part of the way lay about S.E. through a level lava country, with a very light soil. The groves of Pandanus were very beautiful, and are the principal tree of the region. There is some grass and ferns, and many shrubs; but the soil is very scanty. Potatoes are almost the only vegetable [hat c.3n be raised, and these seem to flourish well amid heaps of stone where scarcely a particle of soil could be discovered. The natives II-~ has been estimated to have been 300,000 persons. Tlie population of the island of Hawaii has been estimated at 100,000 to 150,000 persons (Schmitt 1968:10, 42). At the time of the first missionary census, 1831-1832, the population of the island of i-lawai'i was down to 45,792 (Schmitt 1968). In the 1850 census, Hawaii Island population had fallen to 25,864 persons (Ibid.). This decline in population should be understood in order to infer effects on the natural environment of the area under study. For example, food production probably declined in a pattern corresponding to population decline. Puna as a Center for the Development of Hawaiian Religion in Ancient Times Puna was an important center in the development of Hawaiian religion. At Puna, the priest Paao first established his line of priesthood which continued until after the death of Kamehameha I in 1819 (Beckwith 1979:371- 375). The first heiau or pre-Christian place of religious worship constructed by Paao was at Puna (Thrum 1907a:48). Other heiau in the Puna district are noted in Thrum (19076). One heiau, "Kukii," is noted at Kapoho and is described as follows: On hill of same name, at Kapoho, 67 x 120 ft., built by Umi of lava blacks, or slabs, well fitted. Now in ruins; portions of walls only remaining. Some of its stones were brought down by Kalakaua, in 1879, which went into the foundation walls of the palace [Thrum 19076:40]. Another heiau is listed as being in Pohoiki, a subdistrict of Puna located adjacent to Kapoho. This heiau is Oolo, at Pohoiki, "said to have been an important heiau; now [in 1907] entirely destroyed" (Ibid.:39). Hawaiian Legends and Traditions of the Kapoho, Puna Area One of the great romances of Hawaiian literary tradition, the "Legend of Halemano" (Elbert 1979), takes place in part in Kapoho. handsome Halemano of O'ahu falls deeply in love, through dreams, with beautiful Kamalalawalu, the daughter of the chiefs of Kapoho, Puna, Hawaii. With the help of his older sister Laenihi, Halemano endeavors to meet Kamalalawalu in Kapoho, then abducts her along with her younger brother Kumukahi and returns to O'ahu. II-5 C, Kanaina was the father of 14. C. Lunalilo (Kamakau 1961:394), and the adopted daughter of C. Kanaina and Pliriam Ke-ka-ulu-ohi was Ha~aleleponi Kalama who, in 1337, married the third king of the Hawaiian Islands, Kau-i-ke-aouli (Kamehameha III) (Ibid.:341). Thus, a number of personages in the mid-19th century history of Hawaii are involved in the complex and interesting history of the area under consideration. Hawaiian Trails in the Area A few notes on trails in the area can be made: (1) An 1895 Hawaiian Government map (and survey) by A. B, Loebenstein shows trails in the area of Pu'u Honua-'ula, close to the center of the project area. (2) The famous "Ellis Trail," travelled by the missionary William Ellis in 1823, passes through Kapoho, Puna (Ellis 1979:296-323) and may be connected with some of the trails in the project area. Kuykendall explained the evolution of the ancient Hawaiian trail system into modern forms of transportation: "In the meanwhile, roads, what were called roads, were coming into existence in other places by a familiar historical process--'the trail became a road"' (Kuykendall 1966:25). Roads in the project area should be considered in relation to this historical process of ancient Hawaiian trails becoming roads. ' Kalo (Taro) On a portion of the 1895 Hawaiian Government map, "kaloi" is shown on the base of Pu'u Honua-'ula (Loebenstein 1095). Ka Zo'ti is defined as an irrigated terrace for the cultivation of kalo or taro. That kalo would have been cultivated at this location is no surprise. The Puna area was considered once to be the richest agricultural region on the island of Hawaii (}landy et al. 197Z:34Z). Ka lo, the staple food of }iawaiians, was widely cultivated in this area: Throughout northern Puna there is ample rainfall for raising taro wherever soil permits, and taro used to be planted along the coast as far as the Hilo boundary. 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