HomeMy WebLinkAboutCOM 0212.439 1996-1998 ~I~
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20 Ways to Marfcet the 1
Concept of Food Irradiation
Specific markets for food irradiation can mean economic gains for companies
innovative enough to pursue them
DONALD E. PSZCZOLA, ASSOCIATE EDITOR.
TT,/~D~`OGRESS IN TAE COMMERCIAL. USE ~ ~ opposed to a whole line of poultry products,
1 f food irradiation. has been slow, a food company might be more willing to
11.. but there have been positive signs ~ ~ use it as a way of breaking the ice. Also, be-
alongthe way. In 1992, irradiated straw- • cause of the quality and added value of this
berries were sold at an independent pro- product, consumers might be more willing
duce and grocery store in Florida (Marootte, ~ to try other products (irradiated or not)
1992) and one in the Chicago area (Pszczo- from the company marketing the product.
1a, 1992). The latter store also sold a variety
of other irradiated produce including grape-
fruit, oranges, onions, tomatoes, mush- 2. While inadequate cooking and re-
rooms, and blackberries. Tn 1993, selected heating can be a common error which leads
stores in the United States sold irradiated to food-Poisoning episodes, there are people
poultry (Pszczola, 1993). Since then, ap- way the media are reporting food irradia- who still egjoy eating raze meat, raw oys-
proaimately 60 stores in Indiana, Illinois, lion. The coverage-both on television and tors, and raw fish. For this segment of the
and Ohio have been selling irradiated pots- in print-.has become more objective with Population, irradiation can eliminate wn-
toes, strawberries, tomatoes, and other somresactivelysoughtafterfinmthesaen- cerns over foodborne illnesses, such as
products when available; on occasion, stores tific community. Compare that to a few those caused by Campylobacter
jejrcni and
in the U.S. have been selling irradiated ex- years ago when biased statements from ac- Escherichia soli. Once government approv-
otic fruit, such as papaya, mango, andram- tivist groups were routinely reported and als on irradiating red meat and seafood
button; and more than 100 hospitals, Hors- left unchallenged (Pszczola, 1990). have been given, niche products such as the
ing homes, and other such facilities in Flor- The next step is for the food industry to ones mentioned above should provide maz-
idahave been serving irradiated chicken to take a step forward in making irradiated keting opportunities.
their patients and staff. foods available in the marketplace.
Pians aze also currently underway for This article will describe 20 ways that
the building of a fooduradiation facility in food irradiation can be marketed. The fol- 3• Insect pests-in particular, fruit-
thestate ofWashington. The facility will be lowing list is not meant to beall-inclusive, des-eon gain entrance to other countries
capable of irradiating fresh fruits sad veg- but just a starting point for discussion. It by hi~B on or in what otherwise seems to
stables, as well as poultry, meat, andsea- will target specific segments of the popula- be harmless fruit. (The female lays her tiny
food. It will be the result of a joint effort be• lion that can benefit from irradiated foods; eggs on the fruit's surface, and later the lar-
tween anewcompany called New Horizon food products that have the most potential vas dig into the flesh of the truit, causing
Technologies and Food Technology Servic- in the marketplace; sad problems that can damage) Because this "hitch-hiking" can
es, Inc. (formerly Vindicator, Ina), the first be solved by this treatment. have potentially disastrous consequences,
U.S. food irradiator. (Food Technology Ser- many countries require quarantinetreat-
vicesbegan operating its facility, located in y meat of the imported fruit. However, the
Mulberry, Fla., in eazly January 1992) 1. Value-added food products that have continued use of chemical ar physical quar-
A food irradiation facility operated by been irradiated offer a wide range ofmar- saline treatments poses major problems.
SteriGenirs International, Fremont, Calif., keting opportunities. Consider, for exam- On the one hand, fumigation with chemi-
hasreported substantial growth in iffi inns- ple, a chicken breast flavored with alemon- call is increasingly being restricted for toa-
diation of dried vegetable seasonings for herb seasoning. Such a product would be icologicat and environmental reasons. Eth-
food processors. Its volume increased 2050 purchased primarily because of its spetial yleae dibromide has been banned since
in 1993 and 40%a in 1994, and it continued flavor and the convenience it offers to the 1984, and methyl bromide will no longer be
to increase in 1995. In 1996, the company consumer. However, the fact that this prod- used after January 1, 2001.On the other
has a new development project that allows uct wind be promoted as Salmonella-free hand, physical quarantine treatments,
irradiation of fresh produce that is in de- gives it an additional advantage, which which depend oa high or low temperatures,
wand by the foodservice industry. could further enhance its sales. Further- can cause serious quality damage to the
There also seems to be progress in the more, because it is one specific produM as fruit. Moreover, to survive repeated treat-
CdirllSt l`~O: ~ `
46 F000 TECHNOLOGY-VOL. 51, No _2_ FesR.gnRV 199.7 _ _
. �0. 232•439
File No.IND/GIP
F ef, ToPresentedC9 CA
if, Date_ 2 01997 .
:.a
menu, fruits must be picked while they are can rapidly flourish and contaminate the chicken to their patients and employees.
still green and lacking in desirable flavor final product. Epidemics caused by Salina Two foodservice distributors are involved,
and textural qualities. Hello in Canada, Norway, and Sweden have and both frosh and frozen chicken ale being
As options become more limited, coon- been traced to the use of contaminated pep. irradiated. Furthermore, according to a
tries may increasingly turn to irradiation as per. In Germany, Salmonella bacteria were source at the U.S. Army Natick Research
an alternative quarantine treatment. Re- found in a paprika-spiced snack. Suchcon- Development and Engineering Center, Nab
search has shown radiation to be effective, lamination not only poses a health risk, but ick, Mass., the use of irradiated poultry in
and many fruits tolerate well the required can lead to large ernnomic losses, as the the military hospital system in the South-
dose. Economically, irradiation can provide products have to be recalled and destroyed. eastern regions of the U.S. is currently be-
major benefits. As noted by Diehl (1996), Decontaminationcan be accomplished by ing pursued.
studies have shown that "the introduction moist heat treatments which can cause ae-
of irradiation as an import quazantine rious loss of flavor and color quality. Fumi-
treatment rnuld generate net gains to the gation with ethylene oxide was used in the 1U. To further illustrate the above
U.S. of $650 million-$1.1. billion over 5 past, but this gas is under critical fire and three points, the public and the food indus-
years fiom trade with countries where in- has been banned inmany ceuntries. Irradi- try need to be aware that `new" pathogens
sect pests present a phytosanitary risk." ation presents another alternative. In fact, are still emerging. For example, the `Back
in the U.S., spices as ingredients aze the Page" of the January 1997 issue of Food
main application of food irradiation. Be- Technology discusses Cyclospora cayetan-
4.Irradiationcanextendthe shelflife of cause the spices are used as aminor ingre- ensis, the latest microorganism to be impli-
variovs fruits and vegetables. For example, dient in the final product, they do not re- ceted as a food- and drinkbome pathogen of
~ it can inhibit mold growth on strawberries. quire special labeling. Although only a public health significance. Although the
- The elimination of this common problem small percentage of the total volume of spin column did not mention irradiation as a
can present several mazketing advantages, es is irradiated, there have beanvolume in- possible solution, its importance as a fresh
First, the initial quality of the fruit has creases of irradiated spices in the U.S. over meat looks promising,
been maintained, which means that cos- the past three years. Iradiated spices mn-
tomerscan buy the fruit, take it home, and tinue to present major mazketing opportu-
notworryaboutfindingmoldystrawberries pities. 11.Acommon
in the container. Confidence in the roduct argument why food com-
e parries don't provide irradiated foods in the
will mean return trips to the store where marketplace is that consumers do not want
the product was bought. Second, because The `graying'baby-boomers may pr+o- them and are frightened of the process.
that quality has been maintained over a vide a significant mazket for irradiated food However, that reasoning might someday
- longer period of time, it makes it possible products. Such products will enable them to backfire. In an article in the February 1996
for customers to use that product later, per- maintain the healthy lifestyles they devel- issue of Food Technology, lawyer Mark
baps is baking or at a planned celebration. oped over the previous decades, as well as Robeck noted that as the irradiated food
Consequently, convenience becomes an possibly increase their longevity by pre- market grows, the food industry may find
added value for the customer, and the value venting episodes of faadberne illnesses. that not irradiating foods leads to personal
of the store where the strawberries were injury lawsuits. In all ]flcelihood, a consum-
purchased is also enhanced. Third, straw- p er will not sue a food company because it is
berries can be purchased several days after 8. Irradiated foods may be made avail- selling an irradiated food. Rather, he will
they were initially displayed, which means able to people who have compromised im- sue because he or his family became sick
less waste for the store. mane systems, such as cancer patients, pea from a product contaminated with patho-
pre who received transplants, or those in- genic organisms. Robeck maintains that as
flitted with AII>,S. Offering benefits to a seg- consumers begin to understand that a dis-
One reason that consumers may par- went consisting of more than 25 million, ease was preventable by an existing tech-
chase aproduct is novelty-the store is of- these product lines may be labeled "ultra nology, their inclination toward legal action
fering something different to its customers. safe,"'bacteria free," or `specially Processed may grow (Robeck,1996).
For example, exotic fnrits from tropical and for high-risk populations." When censider-
sealitropical areas may offer special maz- ing the potential value of irrradiation in
keting opportunities. The availability of this azea, it is ironic that even marijuana 12. As already noted in the introduc-
these fruits will be made more possible by has gained some public approval as a way lion to this article, mazketing opportunities
irradiation, which would solve the quaran- of alleviating suffering, while a process exist for indepeadentretailers tosell irradi-
tine problem and extend shelf life. Further- which can lessen the chances for incurring sled foods. These stores are innovative in
more, the fruits would probably not be a foodbeme illness (which can have fatal philosophy, but they also have leas to lose.
available if they were not irradiated, thus consequences particularly for someone in a Compared to grocery chains, they are leas
enhanang the need for the process. weakened state) has been attacked by con- likely to draw massive attention to them-
sumeractivists and stymied in the food in- selves, such as boycotts generated by activ-
dustry. isle. However, the success of these stores
6. Interest in ethnic foods is a driving may also prompt other stores to consider
force behind the increasing volume of spit- ~ selling irradiated foods, and is that sense
es used in the U.S. Spices, such as white or 9. When considering the above, it they aze pioneers, opening the trail for
black pepper and chilis, can be used in should not be too surprising that hospitals, those who follow.
meats, sauces, snacks, and atherhigh-moil- nursing homes, and other such facilities
tore products. However, when spices con- may prove to be an important market for ir-
tainingbacteria are incorporated into these radiated foods. Today, more than 100 such 13. A medium-sized chain of grocery
products, the bacteria, including pathogens, facilities in Florida aze serving irradiated stores can find benefit in selling irradiated
VOG 51, Nn. 2, FaaaVAAY 1997-F-0OD TECHNOLOGY 47
20 Ways to Market the Concept of Food Irradiation (continued)
foods. Again, because of its size, boycotts gram. Among the items thatwill be includ- efforts, must do things on a grand scale.
and other negative attention aze less likely. ed on future space shuttle missions are This will work against them because the
The chain can work in cooperation with in- high-dose irradiated grilled beef steaks, success of irradiation in the mazketplace
terested universities to provide educational smoked sliced turkey, breaded chicken will probably be on a smaller, less dramati_
materials to the consumer, work with local breasts, and breaded pork chops. In maz- is scale. And, ironically, that may prove to
media to answer questions, and, if neces- keting strategies, astmnants--both Ameri_ be one of its strengths, because with each
sary, respond to any activist charges or can and Russian-would make good small victory in one market, the need for
claims. spokespersons, emphasizing the safety and this process grows stronger and other maz-
value offood irradiation to the public. kets develop.
Food companies will begin selling irtadi-
14. There are also mazketing opportu- y pp sled foods when they believe they can make
rallies for a food processor to set up a saps- 10. Satin (1996) noted that according a profit. This article suggests markets that,
rate operating company designed specifical- to a subagreement found in the General although specific, can mean economic gain
ly to sell an irradiated food product. The Agreement on Tariff-sand Trade (GATT), no for the company that tries to realize the po-
item would be marketed as a premium country "should be prevented from adopting tential that is offered by that mazket. When
product offering all the advantages that an or enforcing measures necessary to protect thatcommitment ismade-or at least con-
irradiated product offers. If the product human, animal or plant life, or health." sidered-many creative minds from differ-
proved successful in the mazketplace, that Further, the application of these measures ant disciplines will need to come together.
would open up further mazketing opportu- must be based only upon sound scientific These include marketing, consulting, re-
nities, and other companies might begin principles. Satin secludes that this will set search and development, and, of course, the
selling irradiated foods. Furthermore, be- the stage for much wider sales and distribu- executive office.
cause of the size of the company and its lim- lion of irradiated foods, and much greater Finally, for food inadiation to be benefi-
itedproduct line, boycotts generated by ac- international movement of food products. cial, the food industry must take a proactive
twists might be less likely to occur, position. Food companies cannot just keep
waiting for some other company to bleak
19. Another member of the family that the ice and then see what happens. Rather,
15. Because of the volume of produce can benefit from irradiated foods could be they need to anticipate, keeping in mind
that is used in restaurants andconsequent- the family pet. In pet foods, radiation doses such issues as potential lawsuits from con-
lythe amount of waste, irradiation provides of 5 -7.5 kGy would be an effective treat- laminated food, foodborne illnesses and
economic advantages in this foodservice meat for the reduction inpathogenicmicro- emerging pathogens, consumer concerns
area. Certain specific items on the menu organisms (Wilkinson and Gould,1996). over pestiodes, inadequacies of other trea4
can be tazgeted, such as strawberries or menu, and many others. When they begin
exotic fruit, and customers should be in- putting the many pieces together, they will
formed, in advance, ofwhich products were 2U. Irradiation may also play a role in cwme to realize that the time to sell irradi-
treated. IF customers respond favorably, the development of new products, as noted ated foods has arrived.
then owners can consider other items, such by Satin (1996). Someday, solid foods may
as poultry dishes. (The fact that hospitals be sterilized by higher doses of radiation, RefereIICeB
in Florida aze already serving irradiated thus reducing the overall cost of processing, D;ehl. d.F.1ss5. "Safety of eradiated Fonda; 2nd
chicken may help innovative restaurants packaging, storage, distribution, and retail- ed. Marcel Dekker, inc, New York.
emphasize to their customers the safety of ing, While delivering a product of the high- Marcotte, M. 1992. Irradiated strawberries enter
the product) Furthermore, when govern- est hygiene. This day has not yet come, and the U.S. market. Food Technol. 46(5): 80-86.
went regulations aze in place, red meat perha sthis Psuzola, D.1990. Food irradiation: Counteringthe
a p point iS ta0 faz Off t0 be on this tactics and of opponents. Food Tecbnol.
items such as hamburger patties (a huge doable" list. However, someday, 10 or 20 49(6): 92-x7.
market for foodservice) may be irradiated to years from now, another writer may be de- Psa¢ola. D. 1992. Irradiated produce reaches Mid-
destroy pathogenic microorganisms. This veloping such a list, and this ma be the west market. Food Ttthnol. as(s): ss-s2.
Y Pszczola, D. 1993. irradiated poultry makes U.S.
can help lessen the possibility of cross con- fast point he puts on it. Who knows? debut in Midwest and Florida markets. Food
lamination in foodservice kitchens. Technol. 47(11): 89-96.
Robeck, M. 1996. Product liability issues related to
food irradiation. Food Terhnol. 50(2): 78, 80-82.
Satin, M. 1996. "Food Irradiation: A Guidebook'
1 • School lunch programs may be also HY ARE IRRADIATED FOOD PROD- 2nd ed. Technomic Publ. Co., Inc, Lancaster, Pa.
be a market for food radiation However, an Wucts not found regulazly in the R'ilkinson, v.M. and Gould, G.w.1ss6. Food Lra-
education program on the benefits of food mazket lace? I don't think it is ~tiOD' A Reference Guide; Reed Educational
P and Professional Publishing, Ltd., England.
irradiation would have to be provided to the borause oCcensvmer feats. Enough market. Mme. of the ideas found in thin article were
parents before the programcould be imple- ing trials have been done to showthatcon- discussed at various meetings the author attended
mented• sumers, when given a choice, will buy the over the pant two years. Two meetings, in pertirn-
product. The efforts of activists to stop food lar, deserve acknowledgement: (U the IFT/AACC
irradiation should also be ut into Short Course, "Practical Aspects oC Food Irradis-
17. La Maroh 1995, the Food and P ti°°.' Tampa, Fla., October 19-18, 1995, and (2)
I)rirg five. Ultimately, these efforts will fail be- the Research & Development Associates Fall 1996
Administration gave regulatory approval cause, as this article has illustrated, there Meeting, Boston, Mass., November 19-21, 1996.
for radiation sterilization of frozen, pack- are too many potential markets for food ir- The author wishes to thank all the people involved
who provided input for this article.
aged meats for use in the U.S. space pro- radiation Activists, to call attention to their i
i
48 FOOD TECHNOLOGY-VOt. _5L.N9. 2_F~ao_<,g_v ~n97
e.
~e .Mr
• • v
"Q 191)•,,199) ~eC~~o~~
r Covered Irradiation over the Years
r-
DONALD E. PSZCZOLA, ASSOCIATE EDTTOR
1-
:e URIlVG THE SECOND WORLD WnR, AMONG THE ITEMS IN- diation preservation of foods is unique." Such an observation
t, cluded in an American Red Cross package given to pris- may help illustrate the status of food irradiation at that time.
n oners of war in Europe was irradiated evaporated milk. The 1980s saw a resurgence of articles on food irradiation in
> The package ]abet (shown in photo), dated February 1942, vividly the magazine-with neazly 30 articles published, including an
n. illustrates how mature a technology food irradiation actually is. Overview (symposium), "Food Irradiation: A Mast Versatile 20th
i- ,Two years after the war ended, Food Technology made its de- Century Technology for Tomorrovd' (July 1989); a Scientific Sta-
r- but. Over the next 50 years, this magazine would publish more tus Summary, "Radiation Preserva-
than 170 articles on all aspects of food irradiation, including pro lion of Foods" (February 1983);
" ceasing methods, food safety and wholesomeness, regulatory stn- and an update, "Perspective on
.e a attitnd
n and marketingternational trade outlooks, consum- 1987). A numaber of these arti- Sr,N~4,p~
°0~ R°d
e diation a ma~
ems
fit decade, more than 40 articles on irra- Iles fo
among
f~ulmnear~
= pip~~NB~A~4Q~
q
ppe gore doubled in the 1960s. Most of these fades re
p articles were research studies on fruits (strawberries, grapes, ap- lion. One article, "Consum- ~•y°bi•~.yMeg cF~~,~Op w44NO e ,
k pies, bananas, cherries, and citrus types); vegetables (carrots, er In-Store Response to Ir- q'•••k""'F. ~ • •~eqj
broccoli, onions, tomatoes, and green beans); meats (ground beef, radiated Papayas" (Sep- ~~OM i ~ tl
d pork, ham, and steaks), poultry, and fish and shellfish; milk and tember 1987), reported rl ~ 4; -
1_ milk products; beverages (wine, teas, and fruit juices); and a wide on a market trial of ir- "'•vN'i, i
d .range of other food products, including whole eggs, potatoes, radiated papaya coa-
.s flours, cake mixes, wheat, and spices. ducted at two South-
r Types of ionizing radiation used in these studies included ern California su-
n high-energy electron beams generated by a mechanical means or permazkets on
p gamma rays from a ceba1tr60 radioisotope. Interestingly, the use Mazch 28, 1987.
i_ of the former (in pazticulaz, cathode rays, described as artificially The irradiated papa-
acceleratedelectrons)seemed more prevalent in the'50s. In the yas outsold by more than 10:1
'60s, gamma rays becaale more commonly used, although various the double-dipped papayas. Other arti- Y
studies continued with electron radiation. (Today, there is still cles suggested that consumer attitudes toward
a much discussion about the potential value of lineaz aceelerators, irradiation can be positively influenced by aneducation-
especially as a way of responding to some of the concerns that al effort.
~ food irradiation opponents have.) During this period, opposition to food irradiation by activist
e Tn 1958, the Food Additives Amendment to the Food, Drug and groups was also heating up. Efforts included picketing super-
„ Cosmetic Act treated irradiation, a process, as a food additive; markets that were test mazketing irradiated produce, making
consequently, it required advance approval from the Food and inflammatory demands, pressuring state legislators, and at•
Drug Administration before any irradiated food could be sold. tempting to derail the efforts of Vindicator, Inc. (now Food Tech-
Few people could have guessed that it would take another 25 nology Services, Inc.) to build an irradiation facility in Florida.
d yeazs for approval to be granted for irradiating fresh fruits and Food Technology covered these efforts as well as the reaction by
vegetables, and still longer for other foods. For example, in the the scentific trommunity.
° December 1959 issue, an article,'Potential Economic Impact of In the 1990s, 15 articles on food irradiation have been pub-
. Food Irradiation," predicted that sales of irradiated foods should lished in Food Technology so faz, including an Overview, "Food
expand rapidly between 1970 and 1980, and that by 1980, irra- Irradiation: Recent Developments and Future Prospects." In
~j diation `can capture an average of 10% of the mazket in those January 1992, V'mdicetor, Inc. began operating its food irradia-
food groups for which it appears to have promise." Although the lion facility in Florida, and plans are underway for the building
e authors guessed the dates wrong, they were correct in noting that of a facility in the state of Washington. Food Technology has re-
d when irradiated foods are launched in the mazketplace, they ported on the marketing progress of irradiated foods: In 1992, ir-
wouldbenefit bythe scientific studies that were cazefully done radiated produce were sold at an independent store in Florida
" over the years. and one in the Chicago area; m 1993, selected stores sold irra-
~ During the 1970s, few articles on food irradiation were pub- dialed poultry; and more recently, hospitals, nursing homes, and
s lished in Food Technology, although more than 60 appeared in other such facilities in Florida are serving irradiated chicken to
the Journ¢l o(Food Science. One exception, however, was an az- their patients and staff. In the near future, FDAwill begrant-
ticleentitled, "Sane Perspectives Regarding Radiation Effects," ing approval for irradiating red meat.
in the March 1970 issue. The author wrote, "Never in the histo- The next step in making irradiated foods available in the maz-
ry of man has any method of food processing invoked so much ketplace must be taken by the food industry. As Food TechnoG
comment, induced so great a controversy; nor required such an ogy begins its second 50 years, hopefully it will have the oppor-
expediture offunds before its use could be permitted even on a tunny to cover that step forwazd.
limited basis as has the use of ionizing energy. In this respect, ra-
VoL 51, No. 2, I'-E9RUAAY 1997-FOOD TECHNOLOGY 49
_ -c=,x .
} ~ ~ _ 3 maintain chat the process could combai
_ ,'+c-' _ ~ hunger in Thiid World counmes, by
` ~ * _ ~ . - . ,reducing food losses due to spoilage. ,
- ^`1` ~ While that may• be claiming "
' 1 ~ - T1' - l ~ .too much, thitt~'-seve}t.nations, in-. ` '
~ ~ ~ " , I .eluding such poor countries'as China
; , ~ % T ( and.IIanglade"sh, have approved the pry- ,
y cess, and of those, tivenry-four are using •
i,
~ r~~' ~ r.~4._ ~ Mostoppositiontofoodirradiationis~
~I ' ~ ~ ~ ~ visceral.: tt starts from the assumption.
r' ~ ~ ~ ~ chat radiation, frequently a lethal ~ '
i.7 ~ ~ agent, cannot possibly affect food in
~ . ~ ` : .safe ways.'Considering ~hatradiation is
1 1~` ~ linked to such symbolic and literal dis-
~ tits~~~astefs as Hiroshima, •Three Mile Is- •
~ rK - . ~ ~ sT land, and Chernobyl; the power of tfiac
( 'r ? assumption is undeniable; even if food,
:y , ^ ! irradiation has nothing but radioactiv-
III ~~'I~ ~ ~ ~~,i`' ~ iry in common, with aromic bombs and
f. . - nadear reactors. Fear of radiation has
' ~ ' provoked a segment of the public to re- -
" - ~ ~ G-c'A'ti 4~.• sist the process, and the dispute thus
-'--'-'--r`°- I - ~ chiefly pia expera who support,food'--'~\
PUBLIC.HEALTH ~ Food eradiation worksf by exposing irradiation against laymen who oppose
~ foodao bcams.or isotopes of ionizing it, instead of grappling with the details
Tom`®O.7 ~ energy, which split mpi~cules of organ- ' 'of scientific inquiry, the coalition of .
I - l}.l: , . - I isms within the Foo$'~t~at cause dis anti-nuclear activisa,. organiofood ad- _
~Y,Y,~,-]la4to~l, ~ ease, spoilage, orotherforms of deien vocates, and holistic-health praetition-
_ ll oration. If enough molecules are split ~ea who compose the organizbd opposi-
EmationaLopposition persists) the organisms die. Meanwhile, the eq- ~ 4on to food irmdiation habitu911y make
in the face bfscinrtific evidence that eigy passes throiSgh the food, IeaJing ii startling $ut invariably hollow claims
•theprocess is harmless otherwise relatively unchahged. Food- of conspiracy. Fol insfancq, Donis
~ irradiation advocates.cite•substantial ` Mosgofian, ihcfotmcr director of rho
~
I ~ evidence that low doses of radiation San Francisco-teased National Coali-
- can destroy the salmonella bacteria tion.to Stop Food Jrradiation; charged
°'tharinfese up to half the poultry now iri 187 tliacduring~heitwo-and-a-half-
tie~ Tee Foooand Drug Qd- marketed in the United States, kilt tri- year [enure as Secretary of Health and
mini tration announced, Iasi china in pork, wipe out harmful insects Huinan Services; Ma
`~J rgaretHeckle,
_ 'I V. May, as approval oF'irradia- and microorganisms char infest solno longtime food-irradiation advocate,
[ion to kiB salmonella and ocher hariYt- fmia and vegetables, kill parasites. in "headed.up.the entire process of get-.
fur bacteria in poultry, the only uncer- fish, inhibit sprouting. in potatoes and .ring food irradiatior. through FDA:", .
rainry,about the poultry°industrv's re-~ ,onions, and delay spoilage.in a variety ' That unsubstantiated allegation, with
sponse• lay`i~ w}yat reason it would of foods, all while affecting taste. and is implication that Heckler influenced •
provide for declining°the FDAsinvitaG , _ nuvitional-content ,only sligfitty--~'he '.the FDA's. decision-making process,.; -
lion co use the process. The rationales, advocates 'say that at higfiecradiation overlooks the faces.that the report es--
that industry spokesmen gave-citing) exposures-above the level currently tablishing the FDti's..pro-irradiation
food irradiation's poor public image apbroJed by the FDA-food can be policy was wriccen nearly three years
rather.than concerns about its safery,-1. sterilized (for consutnpcion,.say, 67 before Heckler bacame Sccretary,•an'd
- accurately. reflects-the degree bf~public ~'~I 6osoiral patients whose immune. sys- .that the FDA's final mle on fruits and '
. confusion aboutche,process. Indedin- terns have;;been seriously damaged) ~ vegetables-ttir9gency's mostSignifi-
ing to,impugn food irradiation's whole-~'~ and itban begiven a.nearly indefinite. cane food-irradiation rule of chi 1980s
. someness, the spokesmen concurred shelf life without refrigeration. In some -was announced after her departure. '
with the.widesp:read assumpuon• ~instancesirradia[ioncould.reolacetos- ~'~,Opponenahavealsoresortedtocol-.~_~r,.;-,
- among scientists that the process is. is pesticides. For example; the Hawai- oiful antics to draw attention to'their
• safe. They were also correci in ac= ian papaya industry, which slumped 'causq In 1987; when a Canadian par - -
knowledging that most laymen would .after the Environmental Protection liamentary cbininittec'was considerin
' .,rather depend on proper cooking to kill Agency banned achemical defumigant she future of food irradiation, a man
. - salmonella Than eat irradiated poultry. called ethylene dibromide, useZt in - tivearing.a chicken suit strolled through , -
' ' ;"I-he'isstie~,"'said Rogcl Coleman; of •fruit-fly-disinfestation, actively backed downrown Toronto handing out anti-ir-
the National Food Processors Associ- ~ irradiation as an alternative.~~klrradia- r radiation leaflets. In.Occobcr of that
' - anon, "is consumer acceptance." ~ bon's: most ardenrsupporters evens .year, when a proponenC tried to display .
ZG ILLUSTRATION BY ALAN E.COBER S6PTF.~IDfR 1990
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• ;canned irradiated•chicken to.television these was in meat irradiated•ac a dose that four of the five children in the fiat
cameras during a .food-irradiation de- more than fifteen times a's great as char group developed polyploidy, a chiomo-
bate in Washington, D.C., pan epee- now approved by the FDA..Accotding soma! abnormaliry.ch9t may cauu ean-
nent slipped a dr_lying of a skull and io George H. Pauli, an FDA consumer- tor, tghile children in the second group-- °
• crossbones onto the table.' Bur while . safcry officer who has supervised the, displayed far fewer polyploid cells, and ~ '
such ploys reflect the opponents' flair agency's-food-irradiation dcliberacions, ...:children in the third groupshow6d '
,for public •telations,• they .shed little the amount of benzede in the.igadiat-~ none. The authors concluded, `.`These. ,
7ighc on aproccss that may possess con- cd meat was 100 times Icss than that • observations clearly indicate that the ' I'
sideriblc benefit foP mankind: - found in nonirradiafed eggs.. ~ appearance.of polyploid cells'is due to ~
i
' ~ ~ Both sides cim various toxicological the feeding of irradiated wheat They,
ertrErrrrv~nsosofsciennsuin - tesu.co support their conclusions, but recommended'scorage df rrradrafe8
this country who havq done cr- all such acses have lirriited usefulness wheat, "'for periods beyond twelve.
. tensivc research on the whole- wheirapplied.to food irradiation. A ~ ~ weeks, Before it,can be considerell`safe
sdmeness of food irradiation; only a 'standard rozicologibal evaluation of a " forrhuman consumption."•Othcr,NIN / _
few have publiclyexpressed •opposi- food additive entails supplementing :'studies showed pglyploidy,~pr Iethal~
tion ro it, andthe sevyral ocher scion- .test animals' diets with the•additive in . Mutations in .animals ~fod,•rradiated
'I tisa who arc xcively against food'irra- quanti'[ics fargreacerthan those ~to be ~~wheat. ~
,'b diation are not cxperieneed irf the : .used in practice; to find the maximum " " ~However,,.fhe studies' concluswns -
field. This consensus almost certainly. .quantiry that'pzoduces nd ill effects; ,:'conflicted with the findings of stmtlar=
cxisa because nc~ prcpondcrance of cvi= ,that quantiry is [hen divided by a safe- ; :eXperimena on rats and mice conduct- '
' dente rtfutes the opposition's claims. ry factdr, usually 100;,to determine th'c ' ed ar the Bhabhe Atomic RFSearc `
Nof even the most ardent food-irndi'a= amount bf the additive allowable in hu= 'Center, in $ombay, and so the Ihdia '
lion opponent argues that the process man dices; Buc with food. irradiation ,Ministry of•Health asked two iridepen '
'makes. food radioactive, but, as ratites- the additive is the f9pd,r[self, and no denrscie`niisa, m identify reasons'fo / I '
lion chemisrry• hasshown,"irradiation:. animal would be ableto'eattheduanti-,~ the,di'screpancy,~After.examinipg:c
dots create tiny number of molecules ry of irradiated food- iequired" to' find two `sets of studios, jtlio-scebti s I
known as radiolytic produces-formed the tie=CffEct level: Or, if the animal' harshly criticized, the NIN stud' s. ° .
when the ionizing energy from aradio- weie fed one kind df radiated food. Tho-number of polyploid cells and
activcisotope..x alinear acccieratos ' ouzofpropornonto•its'normalinrakeof' , iir.the children fed freshly irr iated~
i splits food molecule's,' creating newilthac food, thc'sttr~y might produce ill wheat Pis well within the noimal range', . I '
• ones. The argumcrit/over food irradta-. .eCreca cays~d not by irradiation but by 'ofl occurrence in -healthy human be-
lion's wholesomeness essentially [urns"a [he.tcs[ diet's. nutritional imbalance. irtds,"~ c~ey said, whereas the number '
on whether,thesrradrolytic products,'- Scientists have tried to got around oCpoly loid cells Found before the. ~.1
- • 'or RPs, arc hazardous;when eaten:. • these limitations by defining: the addi-' studies began=none-cotitiadittod thb ~ '
In defending fbod i~iadiacion's safe- live as~RPs, which are; after all; what cd'nventional undcistanding that all hu-
• ry, an PDA commiaee`in 1980 cited distinguishes irradiated food', but this man beings have somq.polyploid cells.
data showing that a low:radiation dose rapproach'also has drawbacks: RPs exist ' The'srientisa also questioned thostud-
would generate RPs in a ratio of no • in such low concentrations that the ' 'its' claim chat ~•tr the two children who
more.than thirty parts per million. Of needed czccss canngrbe supplied, and. were examined after they had stopped
chose thirty pare, about 90 percent ' ~in any event many RPs have not even ,eating the irradiated wheat, ill abhor-
have tfeen identified as identical to been identified: For all these reasons tc>val Cells disappeared within twenty-
natural food•componcnts grid therefore toxicological testing can do no more • foq'r weeks. Such cells, the scientists
__,presumably gafe. Of chc remaining 10 than provide tough. indicators of irmdi- satH~ should continue to exist foi;yeaa.
percenroftheRPs-or three parts pet. ~ aced food's safcry. Those and dthet problems led the sci-
\ ' million-most have been fo(ind-co be_ Even so, opponents claim to have entices to.conclude ghat "the b Ik of.
• c}iemically similar to natural food tom- found a Smoking gun in a sec of studies . the NIN data arc not only mutual! con-
pbnentS. Their understanding of the conducted by the National Inscimce of , iradicrory but also and ac variance~vith
bomposition of cquivalcnt natural food Nutrition in.Hyderabad,'India, in the ` "the. well established facts of biolog}•."`
Icd the rescarchea to conclude chat if early 1970s..Referring,to eJidcnee chat The scientisc5 .critique led the Iridi-
the. iemaining~~~.RPs harbored., any sig- malnutrition could ipcccasb.one's vul- an government unconditiorrally~co,ae-•
nificandy toxic substanecs, these e'S"tst- nerabiliry~to the toxicity ofdrugs, sci- cept irradiated-wheat products. .And ' • '
ed in quantities'"so.small-a.few para.' entisu-atNIN devised a study;to rest. other fogd-policy-making agencies ~
.per billion-ras io be harmless:. Such : the cffcciof irradiated food on severely' around th'e world, including the FDA,
levels, they said, were undetectable in ,underfed children. Three 'groups of • dismissed the NIN studies as a product ,
state-of-the-arc toxicological tests.. In five .children, all.two- to five-year-olds of bad science. Michael,G. Simie, a re-• . I
addition, FDA officials now maintain, , suffaingfromadiseaserifm~l,nutrition search chemist at the National Insti-
they are comparable co the quantity of called kwashiorkor,. were hospitalized ntteofSnndardsandTechnology's,,Cen=
° significantly toxic substances~knbwn to' ~ and rehabilitated: One group, was fGd,. ter for~Radiacion Research and apro-
exist, harmlessly, in'-, sbme noniiradi- • freshly irrac~iatod'wheac, one received ~ fcssed; independent in the food-imadi=
aced foods: The•FDA oftcials assert wheat irradiated' and then scored for.: scion eontroyeray, speaks for most seien-
that only one significantly toxic RP,, . pvelve we ks; grid one got noniriadiat- tisa.who have ivorked in [hc fieldtvhen
.benzene, has ever been idcncificd, anti'. cd whcacfThc study's authoa stated he calls.chc NIN studies "discredited."
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28 ~ sct>rsutnex these
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,Opponents of irradiation' usually rt- is known co have caused harm to any- half an•ineh in diame[ec Moreover, a~ -
spond that [host who disparage the NNE one outside the plant. In addition, al- flip,'of a switch', scare or stops genera-
' .studies have'an overriding interest in • . though four of thcincidents invol4ed tiontaf the beam.'That.means that so
' promoting food irradiation." ~ leaks of isotopes into the shielding long'as accelerators arc not conning,
Opponents also charge thacprocess- : pools, in each case [he leaking capsules they present no danger, the difficulties
ing plans using' isti[opes as radiation had been built using a technology no of transporting, storing; and using iso-
sources pose unacceptable hcaltf[ risks ~ ~ longer in use (a!t,`,CUgh some of chc topes are obviated:.Co'st is [hc biggest
co nearby residen[s. Exposure to the old-sry^Ic capsules are still in use).. The 'obstacle to expanding'the use of accel- '
.isotopes used in irradiation can indeed leading current supplier of capsulesr orators, but recenc:`mchnological ad- "
be lc[hal: For 4hai reason each plant's ~ Nordion International, formerly asub- ~ vances may eventually make acceler-
isotopes, customarily shca[hed~ in sidiary of A[amie Enemy of Canada,. ators as cost-e(fociive as isotopes. ~ ~
' , stairiless•srecl capsules, arc srored~ in a has built 25,000 capsules and delivered' ~ ~ -
'•cellsurrounded by cementgvalls five or them around tho world without oXEeri- ttr uosr srecrnctir.nn charge:
six feet thick, which absorb radioactive encing a single leak. - by critics of uradatiob, fe~ently ~
energy.: Products needing exposure arc Fur`thcrmore, if the fondest dreams weakened by the~mproverncnt
- ~ ~ rolled-into the cell on a conveyor belt. ~.of some propbncnu are realized„ the in: Soviet-American relations, is th`ac.:~
' Workers enter the celP onty~when the * dangers posed by isotopes will bc.elim- the U.S. Department of Energy has `
- plant is not iri operation and 'the iso- ~ inatetl. These proponents envision a,, promoted food irradiation as part of a
' copes have been mechanically loweted time when linear accelerators will re- convoluted serategy to inereascithe:/
into s podbof water inside the cell. place isotopes as energy sptirces for food production of plutonium, theie'bg fur- '
rFodd-irradiation opptinend say char ' irradiarion; indeed, accclcrators'have thering weapons production. Mosgofi,-
thcsafety record of the roughly'fom already supplanted isotopes as sources an; the NCSPI's former director;.weni ~ '
American irradiation plants makes a for medical therapy units, andare used so far as to~call food irradiation "the en-
"hall of 'shame,".and an infprmation commcrcially:in:many dthcr kirids of, ,ginat6drivc a crucial componcnt'of
manual published be.tlie Nacional'Co- radiation processing: Instead of emit- chc arms'ract.".Qpponents'eite the
alitioh to Seop Food Irradiation ~ [ing radia[iori .in all directions, accel- DOE's rolle•3s administrator of a pro=
(NCSFI) cites six accidents as evi- orators genera're high=iniensity~beams gram, latinched• in...1985, to buildosix
dente. However, none'of the accidents of tadiation that can be as narrow as demonstiacion. irradiation, plants, at a
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i ' riost of abgrut 5321mt1lion. lyhcrcas thoughthccesiumargumcnriswithout ~ti1.~i~r~~~••
most. irraddtation planes around the mcnt, it'has nonc[Jtc)css complicated
fvarld usq'cob8lt-60, supplied by i\'or- the proponents' public-relations chore. ~ ~ ~ . j
' dion International, as their isotope . George Giddings, an uradiacion-tech- To create a truly successfu j ra-r
. source, government plannersoriginzliy .nology consultant, correctly calls the. grance~for'today's sophisticated -
hoped co use ccsium•137 in [hc dcm- ,argument "the single most inflamrna- woman: it is essenttal to het sense .
"onstration plancs.',Unlike cobalt-60,'; . tory aspect of the food irradiation de- ofstyletobothstimulateheremo-
e ~ cesium-137 is an lneidcnial by-product - bate:" He says, "It has fueled the con- ~.tlons and create a dfst(nct Image .
- ~ of nuclear-svcapdns~ manufacture; it is , croversy far beyond its significance." ~in her mind. Ius~ as the scent .
also more dangerous grid Icss suitable Th'c nvo sides arc now at an' im- ~ of an individuahfragrance.is a
for irradiation than cobalt-60. passe. On the one hand; advocates highlq. personal sensory~experi-
d One~rcason the planners µ-ere in fa- ~ have held sway,ac tfie federal level, as ~''ence, so too'is thepackaging that
vorofcesium is that they wished to put the FbA's Qonltry rule indicates. Leg- .enhances it:.' .
rouse [he relacivel7 small amount that islation introduced in Congress throe '.Throughout history the creators ,
had been kept in underwater cooling ~ years ago to roll back FDA food-.ftradi- ~ of perfume bottles haves been
' ~ tapks .at CVashington Sfacc's Hanford ' Scion permits an ban thq_irn" ort and' .inspired by the materials and ' ,
p ..designs of the tlriies'in which they
Nuclear~Rcservadon ivhilc awaidng,...~exporc of irradiated foot~for nvo years ' . LivedliPcndenC$gyptlansfastiloned
' 'scozage iri'a permanent., gcological~re- never reached the floor, and enactment the defy first Fragrance bottles.ont
posimry. Buc .opponents suspcaed an in [he future is extremely unlikely. On ~ 'ofterra-cotta; often in sphinx-like
ulterior mo[ive: if the~demonstretiod `;the other'hand;,opponcnts have had shapes. Thet3thcenturyvenetians----
~planrs showedtharcesium was useful ~sOmc triumphs. at the sta[c.and'Iocali' ~ crafte$' glass,:flacons-ft>
their'
" in'Food izradiation; pfivaie plant opera- IeJcls. They havc`won two-year'mot- , scents.'An at-the 18th centu ''a"
' ~ ,tors might demand access to another,' atotlums on salesand proccssing'of ir- called..by'-~rnany.:'the,_great'age
much larger source oE'ccsium-•[he radiated foods in Ncw York and'Ncw,. , of°"perfumery." French artists.
„ spen['fucl from commercial nuclear rc- ~ ~ ~ Jersey; and they -have obtained a ~pnr- ~ des(gned precious bottles of porce- .
"'r actors.. Spent fuel also contains an manent'ban in Maine. Before the '-iain,goldandenamef..
- ; ` t abundant ainountof plutonium; repro-,. DOE's food-irradiation prograrri was ' W,hen Isatdown to create the lint-
cessing ofthc fuel, n-hich~would be cut from six to nvo plants; they alsd' tleformynew"Cassinl"fragrance.
` nccc'ssaryto extract the cesium; wotild blocked constfuction of Rvo bf the pro- i was inspired by these masters of
be the first step;cowardgecoyering the- posed facilities; first in''California and the art-as well as by my.Rtisstan
~plutonium3for.military~use.~A1986 later.inAfaska,.andtheyhave,ptevent-~ -heritage. when you lookst.the-,
- ~ i iCSFI ublication starts, "The sc a- , ed ~ ' ~ higfily' i'ndlvldualistic' bottle that ~ '
p p private irradiation companies from houses'Cassini'.yousee'an'origi-
ration processing of cesium will allow building plants in several cities. Most nal glass sculpture viith'an Asiatle
' ~foi the Ycproccssing of ;plutonium for impor[ant, the opponents' success in. = feei(nq that is ta=mpered by my '
the new generation of 17,000 warheads depicting food irradiation as dangerous Western background. Verysenstial.
~ the Reagan-rldministra[iori has re-'.~ is likely [o dcte,r food companies for at but also very subtle..
. ~ , , gaestCd ~J.ithin tnc next 6-7 years." - . ' Icasc' the neXt several years. from the; ~ It ~ is a bottle that promises to
- ~ Advocates point ou[~tharthe 1982 .risk-of alienating consumert,•~byem-. become,a classic heaoy.2rystai:
Hart-_Simpson amendment to tfic i`IU- bracing the process. ~ Iikeg(ass,crownedbyartamethyst
.clear Regulaton• Commission's budget Even wiihouc the pressure from op- _ stopper set on a 2Y-karat gold.cof- . - ~ ~ ~-t;
_ 5uthorizacionbars'usingspent~om- poncncs;foodirradiation'sdevelop- Iar.Abotdethatperfectlycomple-
_ mciCial;fucl for'milicary purposes 1nd,~ mcnt would probably be slew, because ments~ the fragrance it, holds.
that thc~~DOE has shaven no interest in ~ of uncertainties about the efficiency
of ' ~ Something that any. man would
- repealing the amendment, The requi- ~ the process. DOE planners hope that 'want to give the woman in his Ilfe:
'siterepiocessingplancsdonotedenex- their demonsdation'plancs, both bf ~ that any wtiman`would~want~to~
~ ist in this countr}•, and arc not likely to which .will use accelerators as energy, • ' grace her: dressing ta61e. Rememr
i; ~ her, a woman without a perfumefs
iformanyyeats, ifevec lnaddi[ion, the sources, will resolve some of those a.worTtanwithoutapast::
~ Impetus for the six demonstration irra- que'scions. In the meantime, food-
I,dia[ionplants Camc not fromthc DOE, ' compan}• executives stem prepared ta. \
!which-evas lukewarm toward the %d'ea; wait ;Merle Eiss, the technical-sys= t
but from-Congress, where'irradiation terns manager at McCormick & Com- %
' sdxocatcs regularly wrote money for. pany, the only, food manufacturer in ~ ~ ~
- rlhe program into adrVtiltis[ra[ion bud- the coun[ry that.has acknowledged us= -i" ' ~ ~ ' ~ / "
gets. Finally;. npne of the planned • ing'~jood irradiation even sparingly, pr,, /
demonstration plants specified any in- • says,~'Consumcrs react very slowly to Nf '
t~ntion ro use ecsium as.an energy any technological change [related co h
` sc{utcc; arid after funding constraints food]: Fcoglc thought canned food was s~~j' ~ ~ ~ '
ca11usCd the program zobc cut back; the poison, and ftfry years passed. before [;;3
cvvo plants•thatsurvivcd chose a source anybody woutid eat it. Some people ~S.A -
other than ecsium. This stems a pecu- around the ~COUntry• still dotit .like to t
liar way to operate aprogram~intended drink pasteurized milk." ~ ~ a~i
r~•"+ to!creatc a demand for cesium. Al-'\ ~ -lacques•LerGe . ~
~ ~ 30 ~ ~ 1' ~ . , P I $li(YI'E~faER 1990 .•:i
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